Tofu type is one of the few choices that can quietly sink a Chinese recipe. Mapo tofu made with firm tofu is a different dish from mapo tofu made with silken — and if a recipe doesn't specify, it's usually assuming one in particular.
The range, firmest to softest
- Extra firm / pressed: dense, holds its shape, good for pan-frying and grilling
- Firm (老豆腐): the everyday Chinese block, holds cubes in stir-fries and braises
- Soft (嫩豆腐): delicate, breaks easily, used in soups and steamed dishes
- Silken (内酯豆腐): custard-like, barely holds shape, for cold dishes and mapo tofu
Which one recipes mean
When a Chinese recipe just says "tofu," it usually means firm (老豆腐) for anything cooked in a pan or wok. The exceptions are worth memorizing: mapo tofu traditionally uses silken, and most soups use soft.
Keeping soft tofu from falling apart
- Cut it in larger pieces than feels right — small cubes break
- Slide it into the pan rather than dropping it
- Move the pan, not the tofu: swirl the sauce instead of stirring
- Salt the water gently when blanching; it firms the surface slightly
Pressing: when it matters
Press firm tofu for 20 to 30 minutes if you want it to brown. Water on the surface has to evaporate before browning can start, and unpressed tofu mostly steams in the pan. For braises, skip it — the tofu will absorb sauce instead, which is the point.
Storage
Keep tofu submerged in clean water in the fridge and change the water daily; it lasts about a week that way. Once the water turns cloudy or smells sour, it's done. Tofu also freezes well — thawed and squeezed, it turns spongy and soaks up sauce, which is a genuinely useful texture for braises.
