Squirrel Fish

Name: Squirrel Fish
Total time: 65 min
Yield: 2 servings
Cuisine: Jiangsu-Zhejiang
Ingredients: mandarin fish (or skin-on tilapia fillet, 400 g total); light soy sauce; Shaoxing wine; cornstarch; Chinese black vinegar; granulated sugar

松鼠鱼 · sōng shǔ yú

家庭快手版 · Home version: Family version uses whole mandarin fish (or tilapia) and hand-cut diamond scoring—no deep-frying at 200°C like restaurants; instead, two-stage pan-fry + shallow fry for control and safety.

My aunt in Suzhou taught me this when I was twelve—she’d hum Suzhou opera while scoring the fish, saying, 'The cuts must breathe like willow leaves, not snap like dry twigs.' We served it at every Spring Festival dinner, always with extra sweet-and-sour sauce for dipping.

Recipe author: HǎoWèi Test Kitchen

Home-cooking research team

Reviewed by HǎoWèi editorial team · Last updated 2026-08-29

Ingredients

mandarin fish (or skin-on tilapia fillet, 400 g total)鳜鱼（或带皮罗非鱼排，共400克）🛒 local400 g
light soy sauce生抽🏮 asian15 ml
Shaoxing wine绍兴酒🏮 asian15 ml
cornstarch玉米淀粉🛒 local60 g
Chinese black vinegar镇江香醋🏮 asian30 ml
granulated sugar白砂糖🛒 local60 g

mandarin fish (or skin-on tilapia fillet, 400 g total): Ask fishmonger to scale, gut, and remove head/tail; keep skin on. Tilapia is acceptable substitute if mandarin fish unavailable.

cornstarch: Must be fine, unbleached cornstarch—not potato or tapioca starch.

🌶️ Adjust to your taste

Pick a level and we'll show exactly how much to change — no more "适量".

Spice level

Saltiness

Oiliness

Make it vegetarian

Instructions

1Score the fish: With a sharp chef’s knife, make deep diagonal cuts (45°) 1 cm apart across the flesh side, then rotate 90° and cut again to form diamond-shaped pockets—cut down to but not through the skin. Flip and repeat lightly on skin side only to loosen.
菱形花刀，深至皮不破
🔍 Look for 8–10 分钟 · 8–10 minutes
Visual: 鱼身呈现整齐菱形纹路，鱼皮完好无破损。Fish surface shows clean, even diamond patterns; skin remains intact.
You know it's right when: 刀刃顺滑切入，不拉扯鱼肉。Knife glides smoothly without tearing flesh.
2Marinate 10 minutes: Rub fish evenly with light soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, and 1 tsp salt. Pat dry thoroughly with paper towels—critical for crispness.
擦干水分，一步不能省
🔍 Look for 10 分钟 · 10 minutes
Visual: 鱼身呈哑光状，无水光反光。Surface appears matte, no glistening moisture.
You know it's right when: 厨房纸取下时洁净，无湿痕残留。Paper towel comes away clean, no damp residue.
3Coat and rest: Dredge fish generously in cornstarch, pressing gently into cuts. Let rest 5 minutes so starch adheres and seals cuts.
粉要进刀缝，静置才定型
🔍 Look for 5 分钟 · 5 minutes
Visual: 鱼身呈均匀淡白色，无漏粉处。Fish looks uniformly pale white, no bare patches.
You know it's right when: 淀粉微黏手，不呈干粉状。Starch feels slightly tacky, not powdery.
4Pan-fry skin-side down over medium heat in 3 tbsp neutral oil (e.g., canola) until golden and crisp (5–6 min). Carefully flip and shallow-fry flesh side in same oil until puffed and caramelized at edges (4–5 min). Drain upright on wire rack.
先煎皮，再浅炸肉面
🔍 Look for Medium heat 9–11 分钟 · 9–11 minutes
Visual: 鱼肉刀口自然翘起如松果状；边缘泛琥珀色油亮光泽。Flesh lifts into distinct 'pinecone' peaks; edges shimmer with amber gloss.
You know it's right when: 油面围绕鱼身持续冒小泡，无剧烈爆溅。Oil bubbles steadily around fish; no violent splatter.
5Make sauce: In a clean wok, combine vinegar, sugar, 60 ml water, 1 tsp salt, and 1 tsp light soy sauce. Bring to boil, then simmer 2 min until syrupy. Stir in 1 tsp cornstarch slurry (1 tsp cornstarch + 1 tbsp water); cook 30 sec until glossy and coats spoon.
汁要熬亮，挂勺即成
🔍 Look for Medium-low 3 分钟 · 3 minutes
Visual: 酱汁浓稠挂勺，滴落呈缓慢丝带状。Sauce coats back of spoon thickly, drips slowly in a ribbon.
You know it's right when: 蒸汽匀速上升，表面微光泛动，无暴沸。Steam rises steadily; surface shimmers without bubbling violently.
6Serve immediately: Pour hot sauce over warm fish. Garnish with blanched peas and shredded carrot. Serve with steamed rice.
汁要滚烫，鱼要温热
🔍 Look for High heat 即刻 · immediately
Visual: 酱汁淋上鱼身微嘶作响，散发酸甜香气。Sauce sizzles softly on fish surface, releasing tangy-sweet aroma.
You know it's right when: 酸香气息鲜明扑鼻。Aroma becomes unmistakably bright and vinegary.

Tips

· Use a flexible fillet knife for precise scoring—stiff blades tear flesh.
· If tilapia is used, score deeper (5 mm) to compensate for thinner flesh.
· Never skip the cornstarch rest—it prevents 'unfurling' during frying.

Sources & references

Quantities, technique notes, and substitution ratios are cross-checked against established Chinese cookery references and standard food-science sources.

Read our editorial policy
Fuchsia Dunlop, Land of Plenty: A Treasury of Authentic Sichuan Cooking
USDA FoodData Central — ingredient nutrition and portion data
Traditional Chinese family-kitchen practice and regional taste records

Common questions

Can I skip Shaoxing wine? What's the substitute?

Dry sherry is the closest 1:1 swap (fidelity ~80%). No sherry? Use a splash of white wine plus a little water, or just skip it and add a tiny extra pinch of sugar — the wine's job is depth and removing meat's gamey notes, and a good marinade covers most of it.

Source: HǎoWèi substitution engine

Is there a vegan substitute for oyster sauce?

Yes — 'mushroom oyster sauce' (often labeled vegetarian/vegan) is sold in most Asian grocers and increasingly in mainstream supermarkets. It behaves 1:1 and adds the same glossy umami. Watch labels if you're also gluten-free; most brands are GF, some aren't.

Source: HǎoWèi substitution engine

What's the difference between light and dark soy sauce?

Light soy (生抽) is the everyday salty seasoning — thin and salty, used in most recipes. Dark soy (老抽) is thicker, darker, slightly sweet, and used mostly for color (braises, fried rice). If you only buy one, get light soy. For dark soy's color: 1 tbsp light soy + a pinch of sugar + a few drops of molasses.

Source: HǎoWèi pantry guide